Monday Oct. 16

Today started out warm and sunny.
We have been lucky with great weather for this time of year in London.
We got our tickets for the tube and took off for the Tower of London.

The Yoeman Warder (Beefeater) who gave our tour was really very good and a bit funny as he told us stories along the way. One such story was about the origin of the nursery rhyme Humpty Dumpty.
"Humpty Dumpty" referred to King Richard III, the hunchbacked monarch. At the Battle of Bosworth Field, he fell from his steed, a horse he had named "Wall" (as dramatically rendered in Shakespeare's play "Richard III": "A horse! A horse! My Kingdom for a Horse!") Richard was surrounded by enemy troops in the battle, and was butchered right there, his body being hacked to pieces. Hence the final part of the rhyme: "All the King's Horses and All the King's men couldn't put Humpty together again!"
Another slightly different version is:
Humpty Dumpty was a powerful cannon during the English Civil War (1642-49). It was mounted on top of the St Marys at the Wall Church in Colchester defending the city against seige in the summer of 1648. (Although Colchester was a Parliamentarian stronghold, it had been captured by the Royalists and they held it for 11 weeks.) The church tower was hit by the enemy and the top of the tower was blown off, sending "Humpty" tumbling to the ground. Naturally the King's men* tried to mend him but in vain.
He also told stories about many executions at the hands of the axe man for prisoners who made their trip through traitor's gate. One such tale was about the practice of some prisoners to give the axe man some money to make sure he swung the axe true and made the death a quick one.
He suggested this was the derivation of the term severance pay derives where extra money to made getting the axe to be less painless.
We then had lunch at a kiosk near the Tower of London called Paul, which also has other restuarants in London. We had a freshly made cheese type of baguette with what was called sausage inside but was really two hotdogs in a creamy horseradish sauce.
We went by the Clockmakers Museum and headed to Covent Gardens. There were crowds of people walking around and vendors everywhere. We really enjoy that area. We did our afternoon pub stop at "Crosskeys Pub. It dates from the mid 19th century,
John is really getting into the bitters here.
We had a lite dinner at a place near the theatre before the show. It was located around a very busy corner and we enjoyed watching all the people passing.
The show "Mama Mia" was awesome. John gave me the cd a few years ago and getting to watch the dancing and hear that great music was so enjoyable! It had you standing and clapping at the end. It was everything I imagined.
A wonderful day!!

Chocolate Week in London

In this morning's paper we found out this week is chocolate week in London. From the web site:

Welcome to Chocolate Week which is the biggest, most indulgent, chocolate celebration the UK has ever enjoyed. Chocolate Week and the World Chocolate Awards will run from Monday 16th October until Sunday 22nd October.
Chocolate Week is pure chocolate indulgence with talks, tastings, demonstrations, launches of new chocolates, chocolate fountains, sculptures etc. Foodies will be able to find out more about chocolate, it’s origins, cocoa beans, how it is made and also taste the finest chocolate in the world.

Hope Sue can tear herself away from Cadbury land and chocolate week to return to the US.

Sunday October 15

Today is Sunday and we got a later start. Instead of getting the hotel breakfast of yogurt, orange juice and a banana we decide to go a small restaurant, Apostrophe, down the block. We split a sandwhich made on pretzel bread and an apple streudel pastry. Sue had a latte coffee and I asked for some hot chocolate. Of course it was not ordinary hot chocolate, but thick creamy hot chocolate which I was told was Spanish style - it was good.

After breakfast we walked a couple of miles to a market near Liverpool called Spitalfields. It has just about everything and was very dense with stalls and people. The food there is unbelievable with quite a variety and all homemade. See the pictures for some of the pastries and also a neat picture of a guy from Italy who makes Italian baguette sandwhiches which are about a foot and half long. Also, should not forget the Montezuma Chocolate shop, a small but with a nice variety of top quality chocolate. Sue found a stall where a lady, Amanda Mansell, designs and makes custom jewelry. She has some very unique pieces and we may try to visit her studio on Tuesday.

Next stop is the British Museum. The building is gigantic and it is hard to imagine the priceless artifacts they have. We did get to see the Rosetta stone, Jewel Chess pieces, pieces of the Parthenon, Nereid monument and many others.

After the museum we set out to find a place to eat and decided to go to a pub called The Jack Horner where we had fish and chips and a beer (Sue had a honey type of lager and I had a Fuller special October amber ale). On the way to the pub we saw two examples of what you do not want to do if you drive in London (we definitely were not driving). A young fellow on a motor scooter, the type Justin calls a DUI motorcycle, parked in the wrong spot. He must of said something he should not have because in addition to getting his cycle impounded he was taken away in cuffs. Another person in a VW Golf type of car must have also parked in the wrong spot. We got to see the British way of towing a car that is in a tight parking spot. A tow truck pulls up, raising a crane like device over the car, drops down a bit and then secures the four 'legs' of the crane to the four corners of the car then picks it up and puts it on the truck then away it goes (see pictures).

Now back to the hotel and again a Starbucks near the hotel is closed - closes at 5:30; Sue notes all the coffee shops around us seem to close very early. On the weekday the Starbucks is only open until 8:30 PM. So instead she will have tea in the room.

Saturday October 14

Started off today mid morning for Piccadilly Circus area. Did some browsing around the area then went to see what was being offered as half-price tickects for the plays in the area. Sue really wanted to see Mama Mia and unfortunately they were not being offered; think the show is still too popular. Thus we decided to go to the theatre's box office. They were sold out for the weekend but we were able to get tickets for Monday at the 7:30 show.

After some more browsing around we were ready for lunch and on the hunt for another neat pub. We found one name Tom Cribb - see the picture link for some pictures. It was definitely a traditional British pub with quite a few locals. The bar tender looked just like you would expect an English pub bartender. A patron sat in the corner of the pub with his wife and I wish I had taken a picture of him. He looked like he could be someone just in from the North Sea - filled with character. We had a traditional Ploughman's lunch which is a basic working man's lunch - ti was great. And of course we had to have a beer, a different one, so I had a cask ale Late Red and Sue had Holsten lager.
Here is a write up about the pub and note the reference to Sherlock Holmes.

Busy little pub, tucked just away from some of the liveliest bits of the West End. Tom Cribb was a highly successful prize fighter of the late Georgian era who took over this actual pub at the end of his career in 1820, when it was called The Union Arms. The pub, which became nicknamed Cribb's Parlour, became a popular meeting place for boxers and aristocrats and was mentioned in Thackeray's Vanity Fair as well as books by Conan-Doyle and Pierce Egan. Although the building dates back to the early 18th century, it has been through several alteration. Happily the fine late Victorian facade, with square tiled Ionic pilaster and wrought iron railings, survives. The interior is rather plain and mostly modern, enlivened by big lamps a-dangling over the bar and old prints, several of which have a pugilistic theme.

Next we took off for the Imperial War museum which houses artifacts and history of World War I and II. It is housed in a building which was the Royal Bethlam Hospital - also know as "the Bedlam asylum" and the place was so wild it gave a new word for chaos bedlam. The museum was really very nice with a lot of information and actual artifacts from the war from medals and paper to tanks, airplanes and submarines. There is even a tour which takes you through a special part of the museum to simulate what it would have been like to be in London during Hitler's bombing runs. We decided not to take that tour.

It was a little after four and we wanted to get to St. Paul's Cathedral for a service they have at 5:00 PM. On weekends they do subway work so some lines are down or have partial closures so we left enough time to get there and find the church. We made it on time and at first sat well back in the church - they had the front blocked off. The church did not have pews, just folding chairs in the huge area where people could sit. About 10 minutes before 5:00 they asked who wanted to attend the service so we moved up but still a long way from the altar. About 5 minutes later we were asked if we wanted to sit in the choir area. So before we knew it we were right up front in the beautiful choir area where the seats are facing eachother on each side of the altar. I told Sue we were now siting where important people sat during Princess Diane's wedding. At 5:00 about 20 young boys and a few older ones came in with the priest and choir director and took seats on each side just like us but to our left (altar to our right). The service is called evensong which is very similar to a mass without communion and prayers and psalms are song by the choir in commemoration of the incarnation of Christ. (Check out the link for more information.) The service was really nice and the church is beautiful - see this link for more information about the cathedral.

It was getting late and this area of London closed up early on Saturday - it appears to be a business district; plus it was getting cooler so we found our way back to the tube. Made it back to the hotel and found a place to get some supper - very hungry at this point.

Friday Oct. 13

Happy Birthday to Emilie!
Buckingham Palace is our first stop. We got there for the changing of the guard. The changing is really uneventful but the crowds and fanfare are interesting. Back on the tube we are headed to Baker St. to see the famous 221b address. Dad got a picture of it and we went inside to check out the shop. We also found a big statue of Sherlock and I took a pic. of dad. \i guess we are just acting like tourists!
Harrod's --oh my! What aplace. We went through the Edwardian food hall and of course had to buy some food. We got scones and bread and went outside and ate it while watching the fur protest. Harrod's is just a place you have to see to believe! It was very busy and a great area to just walk around and see the stores and the people.
Ok next is the beer stop. Today we wnet to "Lord James Russell Inn" I had a Budweiser {not the American made} and dad had a Directors Bitter. Again very good and the bartender was very nice.
A quick trip to Covent Gardens and then dinner at the Wodka for polish food. We had stuffed cabbage and beet soup {borscht} the pierogis. We had a drink after dinner which was a cocktail for me with Rose Petal Vodka, raspberries, lime and soda. Dad had a shot of orange spice vodka. The vodka is homemade and flavored. Good! With that we where finished for the day and got back on the tube headed for the hotel!

Thursday Oct.12

We are settling into a routine now, we get our little bag of breakfast {"yoghurt", a banana and juice} then we are off for the day. The plan is very busy but here goes!
We stop at the ticket office in the tube and get a two zone off peak all day and we can just hop off and on anywhere. Our first stop is Westminster Abbey. It was not busy and we spent about 3 hours there. Oh my it is awesome! We saw the graves of so many famous people and attended a communion service in Edward the Confessor Chapel. Next a walk past 10 Downing St. and the Prime Minister's place. It is well guarded as you can imagine with officials standing around with machine guns! We took a picture and got out of there.
The Cabinet War Rooms were next. That was very interesting. Everyone got a audio tape and went through at your own pace. We saw the famous Map Room and the 21 roomed bunker used by Winston Churchill and his cabinet during the war. It was all sealed when the war was over as it was used in that time and then opened in 1970 I believe. Worth the visit.
We found the National Gallery and just had an hour before closing but it was wonderful! We saw works by Leonardo Di Vinci, Van Gogh, Renoir and we did look up "Whistlejacket" Emilies favorite!
Since we are making an effort to try as mush beer as possible we stop each afternoon at a pub. Today we went to "Lord Moon of the Mall" pub for Carsling and Bomadier. We did have a traditional English lunch which included a potato pie type dish, and dad had a steak pie.
We got back around 7 having spent a very busy and exciting day around town.

Theatre District

Our main plan today was to go to Leicester Square to get some half price tickets for one of the Broadway plays in the Theatre district. Mom had a particular place to go which is supposed to be the best place to go - need to watch out for phonies. We got off the subway and saw several half price stores most of which said they were the original/authentic. We did find the one in Steve's book and bought tickets for a 2:30 matinee of the Producers. Seats sounded good - 4th row center.

We had some time to kill so we decided to walk around the area and go to Covent Garden area. So far the weather was cooperating - about 60 degrees and overcast. In about an hour it started to rain, then it poured. Since it was warmer we did not have our jackets but did have the umbrellas, however it had some downpour periods so our shoes and bottom of our pants got a bit wet (Mom wrang the bottom of her pants out a couple of times).

Because of the rain we decided to take the subway back to the Drury Lane theatre area. When we ascended from the subway to the streets we saw the rain was reduced to a drizzle and soon stopped. Now time for lunch, so we looked for an authentic British pub. Soon we saw a pub with a sign stating it was voted best pub (not sure by whom, but it looked worth a try). It is the Freemasons Arms - Shepard Neame master brewer. Mom ordered tomato soup and I ordered chili. The chili was served a bit differently - over rice; it was very good. I had Spitfire beer and Mom had Oranjboom, both very good.

Next was the play. The theatre was very nice and the seats were great. While not a sellout for the matinee it was a good size crowd and the show was very well done. Cory English and Reece Shearsmith were in the lead roles. We plan to see another play later this week, possibly Mama Mia on Friday or Les Miserables.

After the play we did some more walking around and had dinner here at the hotel - a soccer game was on TV so all of the pubs were loaded with people. I had stuffed pepper (stuffed with couscous) and Mom had a chicken club sandwhich that sounds basic but it was a multiple layer of grilled chicken, ham, and sliced boiled egg. Both were good.

Tomorrow off to see the queen.

First Night

Well it took 5 times zones and staying up an extra 24 hours but we finally slept in until 8:00 AM. It was quiet here and the bed at the Hoxton Hotel was very comfortable.

There was not much on TV last night, we don't get very many stations in the hotel (for an extra cost there are some movie channels); but this morning we turned on the TV and there was Raymond and Frasier shows.

Did post some pictures last night of the hotel and should get more today. Go to get going, more later.

We have arrived!

traveling all night is not as exciting as it might sound. We took off right on time and had the usual inflight distractions, children crying, turbulance, discomfort, and pillows that are way to small.
But we had a meal and a movie so in the end it was fine.
Since we bought our express ticket in advance we thought we really had it figured until we had to make the second leg into London and our hotel. We did get it figured out after asking a few folks and getting wonderful help. The English are really nice! The tube is an adventure.
The hotel is very nice. It is clean and quiet with wonderful sheets and towels!
While sitting by a window in a cafe' and looking outside at all the people and crazy traffic it hit us that we finally are in England!!!
Tomorrow it is off early to get tickets for a play or two, and then on to Piccadilly Circus.
Oh my before I forget, the place is loaded with chocolate. I will bravely try to see just how much I can sample. Plans also include a visit to a pub tomorrow.
It has been a very hectic day so we bid you good night!
John and Sue

Just in

Arrived in London Gatwick airport today a little after 10:00 AM London time (5 hours difference). The plane ride went well but hard to sleep to much on the plane especially with an occasional crying child.

We were real impressed with the Detroit airport. It had been awhile since I flew through it and they have really fixed it up.

Took the Gatwick Express train from the airport. Yesterday bought a round trip pass on the internet so only had to show them our confirmation number on the train. The train is 30 minutes and the scenery is nothing too special along the way. One thing we did notice is they seem to love the art of graffiti - seemed to be all over the place.

Once we made it to Victoria station we decided to take the tube to the area of London where the hotel is located. Asked two different people of the best way to get to Old Street tube stop and got two different answers. Turns out both would have worked, just a different stop to change lines. We took the Victoria line to Euston and then switched to the Northern line to get to Old Street. Here is a link to the Tube Map. Once I got connected to the internet found this site to help plan tube trips.

We saw a lot of advertising for plays in the area or coming such as Mama Mia, The Producers, Lion Kinge, Evita, Mary Poppins, etc.

Once we made it to Old Street we needed to find the hotel which is on Great Eastern street. I could tell from the map it is close to the tube stop but when we got up from the underground I could not quite get my bearings. I could not see any street signs so I made a logical guess and we walked a couple of blocks then decided to ask a guy we saw - a little weary at this time. He said he used to live in London so he tried to help. I did not feel too bad at this point since he also could not find a street sign - then he found it. Guess where - on a building on the third floor. So that gave the bearings I needed to find Great Eastern and then quickly found the hotel, which is only about 3 blocks from the Old Street stop.

Mom is taking a twenty minute nap - she said to not let it go longer, then we will probably get a bite to eat [our eating schedule is a bit messed up - dinner on the plane at around 11:30 PM and breakfast at about 8:00 AM London time which was 3:00 AM NC time; last time we compare times]. It is now about 1:30 PM so need to wake up Mom.